Important Telephone Numbers:

*SHOULD YOU COME ACROSS A DEAD ANIMAL (ANYWHERE) CALL 021-8524750 or 082 563 2712 COLLECT, ENSURING THE ANIMAL HAS THE FINAL DIGNITY OF REMOVAL AND BURIAL*

We have also found an emergency number so if you see a dog in distress you can call this number and they will also come out to assist. The Emergency After Hr.No. is 073 404 2435, ... Any time!

CHANGE YOUR MINDSET - STERILISE YOUR ANIMALS - TODAY

This is an urgent plea to EVERYBODY out there to please sterilize and look after your pets!

Last night I found a cat roaming the streets. He looked sickly so I went to take a closer look. He had hidden under a car in  a parking lot, I shone a torch on him and could see that he had blood coming from his mouth. My initial thoughts was that he had been hit by a car or abused. I managed to get him to come out and  was horrified at how thin he was when I picked him up. I could feel every little bone.  

I got hold of our local pro-life animal shelter, and they were amazing, within 20 minutes they were by me and had put him in a cat crate and took him to their vet. I had told them that if he makes it I would adopt him.

They were kind enough to phone me back later that night to tell me that the poor cat had a tumor in his mouth which was bleeding and he had been starving and unable to eat because of it. He also had kidney failure and had to be put down. He was also an unneutered male.

I write this with a heavy heart as I am sure if someone had helped him sooner he might be still be alive today. It shocks me that he was in the condition that he was and I am also sure that at some stage he must have been some bodies pet!

I am just glad that he crossed my path and I was able to give him comfort in his last few hours. At least I know that he is not suffering or starving any longer.

The email below is from Dr. Shelagh Hahn, a vet that does a tremendous amount of work for welfare animals. Please read what she has to say will really get you thinking. Please will you also pass on to all you know and if your animal is not sterilised, please book them in TODAY!!!  To have your pets sterilised, email anoux@pets.org.za

(Please note, the same scenario applies for Dogs)

Today I spayed a cat.

She was brought to me by an animal welfare organisation, having been dumped by some selfish ignorant fool. She was pregnant with 4 foetuses.

If she had not been spayed, she and her statistically 2 daughters would each have had 4 kittens 6 months from now, and she and her 2 older daughters, her 2 new daughters and her 4 granddaughters would each have had 4 more kittens 6 months after that. Continue to do the maths, adding in the males, and after 4 years you are heading for 100 000 cats.

I sterilise about 50 homeless animals a week for charities. If I continue to do so until I have worked for 40 years, I will have sterilised 100 000 charity animals in my career. So if one idiot dumps one unsterilized animal about 4 years before I retire, he will replace all the animals I have sterilised with unsterilized ones the day I retire. Thanks idiot!?

Municipal pounds in Gauteng alone have to kill over 2000 homeless animals every month. Guess what that adds up to in 4 years......100 000 deaths. So all that senseless killing is only cancelling out the irresponsibility of one person who didn’t sterilise an animal 4 years before. Food for thought for that person.

Tomorrow I will sterilise another 10 charity animals. While I am doing that, please send this email to everyone you know, maybe it will reach one person who will change their selfish mindset and sterilise their pet. Even if it can stop one pregnant animal from being abandoned before the year 2030, all the work I do for charities may not have been a complete waste of time.

What to Do if Your Dog… Has an Emergency Condition 

Here is a list of some common problems dogs can have with quick suggestions of what to do.

1. Stops breathing – If your pet stops breathing you can attempt CPR. Check for a heart rate by feeling for a beat over the area of the heart which is just behind the elbow on the chest. Watch the chest for breathing movement. If your pet is not breathing, you can begin artificial respiration by closing the mouth and blowing into the nose. Check again for a heart rate. If there is no heart rate, begin chest compressions. Lay your dog on his side and use both hands to compress the chest just behind his elbow on the chest wall. For more information on CPR, click here.

The purpose of CPR, in both humans and animals, is to keep them alive until the heart begins beating on its own or a cardiac defibrillator can be used. In people, about 15 percent of those getting CPR actually survive. In animals, CPR is frequently unsuccessful, even if performed by a trained veterinarian. Even so, attempting CPR will give your pet a fighting chance.

Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR)

Go http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AFrUiRIeVo&feature=player_embedded, to watch a video to demonstration on how to perform CPR on your dog .

a) Airway

If your pet has stopped breathing, check to see if the throat and mouth are clear of foreign objects. Be careful about placing your fingers inside the mouth. An unresponsive dog may bite on instinct. If the airway is blocked, do the following:

• Lay your pet down on his side.
• Gently tilt the head slightly back to extend the neck and head, but be very careful: Do not overextend the neck in cases of neck trauma.
• Pull the tongue out of your pet's mouth.
• Carefully use your fingers to sweep for any foreign material or vomit from the mouth. Unlike CPR for humans, you can reach into the airway to remove foreign objects.

 b) Breathing

If your dog is breathing, allow him to assume the position most comfortable for him. If he isn't breathing, make sure the airway is open, and begin rescue breathing. Again, remember that even an unresponsive dog may bite on instinct.

• Make sure the neck is straight without overextending.
• For medium to large dogs, you will be performing mouth-to-nose breathing. Close the mouth and lips by placing your hand around the lips and holding the muzzle closed.
• Place your mouth over the dog's nose. For dogs under 30 pounds, cover the mouth and lips with your mouth. Your mouth will form a seal.
• Exhale forcefully. Give four or five breaths quickly.
• Check to see if breathing has resumed normally. If breathing hasn't begun or is shallow, begin rescue breathing again.
• For dogs over 30 pounds, give 20 breaths per minute.
• For dogs less than 30 pounds, give 20 to 30 breathes per minute.
• Now check for a heartbeat. If no heartbeat is detected, begin cardiac compressions with rescue breathing.

c) Circulation

For most animals, chest compressions are best done with the animal lying on his side on a hard surface. For barrel-chested dogs such as bulldogs and pugs, CPR is best done with the animal on his back.

Make sure your pet is on a hard surface. The sidewalk or ground should work. If the animal is on a soft area, chest compressions will not be as effective.

For small animals (less than 30 pounds)

• Place your palm or fingertips over the ribs at the point where the raised elbow meets the chest.
• Kneel down next to the animal with the chest near you.
• Compress the chest about 1 inch at a rate of twice per second. (Small animals have higher heart rates than people so compressions need to be more rapid.)
• Begin 5 compressions for each breath. After 1 minute, stop and check for a heartbeat. Continue if the beat has not resumed.
  
  For animals 30 to 100 pounds
• Kneel down next to the animal with the back near you.
• Extend your elbows and cup your hands on top of each other.
• Place your cupped hands over the ribs at the point where the raised elbow meets the chest.
• Compress the chest 2 to 3 inches at a rate of 1.5 to 2 times per second.
• Begin 5 compressions for each breath. Check for a heartbeat after 1 minute and continue if none is detected.
  
  For animals over 100 pounds
• Perform CPR as you would for large pets.
• Compress the chest about once per second.
• Apply 10 compressions for each breath. Check for a heartbeat after 1 minute and continue if none is detected.
  
  Perform CPR until you have reached a veterinary hospital. After 20 minutes, however, the chances of reviving an animal are extremely unlikely. 

2. Is choking – If your dog is choking, gently and carefully try to look in his mouth. You can perform the Heimlich maneuver by applying pressure on your dog's abdomen just behind the ribs in quick thrusts.

If your pet is small and you cannot easily remove the object, lift and suspend him with the head pointed down. For larger animals, lift the rear legs so the head is tilted down. This can help dislodge an item stuck in the throat.

Another method is to administer a sharp blow with the palm of your hand between the shoulder blades. This can sometimes dislodge an object. If this does not work, a modified Heimlich maneuver can be attempted.

• Grasp the animal around the waist so that the rear is nearest to you, similar to a bear hug.
• Place a fist just behind the ribs.
• Compress the abdomen several times (usually 3-5 times) with quick pushes.
• Check the mouth to see if the foreign object has been removed.
• This maneuver can be repeated one to two times but if not successful on the first attempt, make arrangements to immediately take your pet to the nearest veterinary hospital.
  
  Even if you are successful in removing a foreign object, veterinary examination is recommended. Internal injury could have occurred that you may not realize.

3. Has something caught in his mouth - Make sure you are careful and don't get bit. If you see something caught in his throat, you can gently try to remove it. Again be careful. If you need help, call or go to your veterinarian's office or local emergency clinic.

4. Swallows a medication – If your pet eats a medication of yours, another pets or an overdose of his normal medication, call your veterinarian or local emergency clinic. Some medications can be dangerous even in small doses. Your vet will need to determine if the medication is toxic. You will need to tell them how much your dog weighs, when he ate it, how much he got, and the name and strength of the medication. Your veterinarian or the poison control hotline will help you decide if the medication is toxic and if the situation is an emergency. Toxicities may require induction of vomiting, activated charcoal, or fluid therapy depending on the amount, timing and type of medication ingested.

5. Is vomiting - If your dog vomits once and is otherwise acting normal, you can probably wait and see what happens over the next hour or so. If your pet vomits repeatedly, acts lethargic, has diarrhea, seems anxious or uncomfortable, then he should be evaluated by a veterinarian.

6. Has a broken leg – If you suspect that your pet has a broken leg, approach him carefully. Many dogs that have no history of aggression may bite when they are in pain. Take him immediately to your veterinarian or local emergency clinic.

7. Has a seizure – If your pet has a seizure, protect him or her from injury by making sure they are not by any water or pools, or near stairs or sharp objects. Don't touch the face or mouth. Many pets having a seizure may bite without knowing or meaning to. Don't worry about them swallowing their tongue, they won't. Talk to them calmly until they come out of the seizure. If you can, note the time and notice how long the seizure lasts. If it lasts longer than 5 minutes, call your veterinarian. Some pets may have a seizure one time and others will continue to have more seizures. Seizures can be caused by many different conditions including low blood sugar, infections, trauma, liver or kidney disease, or epilepsy. Call your veterinarian for recommendations. The best thing to do is to have your pet evaluated after its first seizure to look for any underlying disease. Repeated seizures should always be evaluated.

8. Is bleeding – If your pet is bleeding, he should be evaluated by your veterinarian. If it is a skin injury, you may try to gently apply pressure to the area. If your pet is vomiting blood, you notice blood in the stool, or is coughing blood, they should be evaluated immediately.

9.Is injured – Trauma can cause both internal and external wounds. Some injuries may be obvious such as a laceration or broken bone and others may be less obvious such as internal bleeding. At home, monitor your pet for trouble breathing, bleeding, bloody urine, abnormal bowel movements, lameness and lethargy. These are all serious and potentially life-threatening signs and should prompt immediate evaluation. You can evaluate your dog by assessing his gum color, respiratory rate and effort and taking a heart rate. If the gums are pale, respirations labored, heart rate high or low, your pet may be in shock. If your pet has experienced a serious trauma such as being hit by a car, the safest thing to do is to have him or her evaluated by a veterinarian.

10. Is stung – If your pet is stung by a bee or wasp, you can gently clean the area and if you see a stinger, gently remove it. Some dogs will have allergic reactions to bites and stings and other pets will not experience any problem from stings. Evaluate your pet for the next several hours for any sign of an allergic reaction such as swelling of the face and muzzle, hives, difficulty breathing, vomiting or lethargy. If you notice any of these signs, call your veterinarian or local emergency clinic.

11. Is coughing – Coughing is an important symptom and should not be ignored. If your pet coughs once and is eating, active and otherwise fine, you may watch for more coughing over the next hour or two. If the coughing continues, your pet acts short of breath, is lethargic or not eating, he or she should be evaluated immediately. There are many reasons for dogs to cough including pneumonia, bronchitis, trauma or heart failure. Some of these can be life-threatening so the safest thing to do is to have your pet evaluated.

12. Is bitten by a snake - Do you know what kind of snake it was? If the snake was venomous, your pet should be evaluated by a veterinarian.

13. Eats a plant – If your pet eats a plant, the safest thing to do is find out if the plant is toxic. Call your vet or local emergency clinic. You can also check out our list of toxic and non-toxic plants.

14. Urinates in the house – If your pet urinates in the house and this is "unusual", he or she should be evaluated. Inappropriate urination can be behavioral but can also be caused by infections, diabetes, kidney disease, or side effects

of some medications. Call your veterinarian and see if they want to see your pet and if they want you to try to bring a urine sample with you.

15. Has diarrhea - If your dog has one episode of diarrhea and is otherwise acting normally, you can probably wait and see what happens over the next hour or so. If your pet has repeated bouts of diarrhea, you notice blood in the stool, your pet acts lethargic, is vomiting, seems anxious or uncomfortable, then he should be evaluated by a veterinarian.

16. Is limping – There are many causes for limping from minor problems, muscle strains to ligament tears or fractures. If you notice your pet limping, keep his activity restricted to leash walks. If he seems painful, the limping persists, or you suspect a fracture, see your veterinarian immediately. To prevent further injury, keep you pet confined and restricted to leash walks for urination and defection only until the problem has been evaluated.

17. Pulled out its suture – If your pet is licking at its suture line – call your veterinarian as the next thing your pet will probably do is pull out the sutures. If your pet is licking, he probably needs an "E-collar" that will prevent him or her from reaching the wound. If your pet has already pulled out the sutures, look at the incision. Is it open? How long has it been since the surgery? If the wound is open or the surgery was less than 5 days ago, most likely it will need re-sutured. Additionally, the area will need to be bandaged if possible or an e-collar placed on your pet to prevent further injury. If there is any doubt about what needs to be done, it is best to have your pet evaluated by your veterinarian. If the area is infected, your pet may also need antibiotics.

18. If your pet has something in his eye – This can be serious. You should prevent him from scratching at it and take him to your veterinarian. Scratching or rubbing at the eye is a natural response but pets can do a lot of damage by doing this. If you have an e-collar at home, place it on your pet immediately while you make arrangements to have your dog evaluated at your vet's office.

19. Is lethargic or unresponsive – This is often a life-threatening symptom and can be associated with many different diseases. Call your veterinarian immediately and have your pet evaluated.

20. Can't or has trouble urinating - If your dog is straining to urinate, can't urinate or is licking the genital area excessively, he or she should be examined by your veterinarian. This condition can be caused by urinary tract infection, bladder stones or prostate problems in males, as well as vaginal or uterine infections in females.

21. Can't or has trouble defecating – This symptom needs to be watched carefully. If it is only one episode and then your pet acts normal, you may not have to worry. If your pet can't defecate in 24 hours, strains, you see blood, or is not eating, then he or she should be evaluated by a veterinarian.

Why it is ALWAYS a bad idea to remove a tick with your hands:

The safe removal of a tick involves a method where NO COMPRESSION or pressure is placed on the abdomen of a tick.

DO NOT squeeze or crush the body of the tick because this may force infective body fluids through the mouthparts and into the wound site.

By using your hands, one places pressure on the abdomen on the tick, every time.  Not only that, but an open cut or scrape to your hands sharply increases the risk of cross-contamination. This compression causes the tick to release saliva into you (or your dog, cat, horse etc) at the bite wound and a backflow of the tick’s digestive juices flow into the bite wound. 

A tick’s saliva contains irritating substances and sometimes pathogenic organisms that can lead to infections and/or allergies. Tweezers and other instruments exert pressure on the tick.  TICK TWISTER does not compress the body of the tick.

If the tick is infected with pathogenic organisms (for example, African Tick Bite Fever, Rickettsial pox, New Pathogenic Rickettsiae, Crimean-Congo Haemorrhagic Fever or Borrelia burgdorferi, the agent of Lyme disease etc), it can transmit the infection to the host during the feeding process.  Many ticks are infected with more than one micro-organism.

As the tick feeds, the pathogens multiply, migrate to the tick’s salivary glands, and are carried into the wound site along with the saliva. 

This process normally takes a couple of hours to occur and that is why it is so important to remove a tick as soon as possible, preferably with in the first 12 – 24 hours as this greatly reduces the risk of infection.  Data suggest that the prompt removal of an infected tick, within approximately 24 hours, reduces the risk of transmission to nearly zero.

The tick’s rostrum (LEFT:  the part that is embedded in the skin and improperly referred to as “the tick’s head”) is covered with backward pointing spikes that allow the tick to “anchor” in the skin.

By pulling up on the tick, the spikes will rise and lock the rostrum in the skin. The tick may break leaving body parts resting in the skin and causing a painful inflammation, or an infection.

By twisting effectively and correctly only with a Tick Twister, NOT with one’s fingers, the spikes bend into the axis of rotation, and the tick is easily removed, without traction, thereby decreasing the risks of breaking the rostrum.  Most ticks secrete a cement-like substance during feeding.  This material helps secure their mouthparts firmly in the flesh, further adding to the difficulty of removal by just pulling.

If one just pulls back sharply with a tweezer or one’s fingers as is often done, this may tear the mouthparts from the body of the tick, leaving them embedded in the skin.  

If this happens, do not panic. Embedded mouthparts are comparable to having a splinter in your skin.  However, to prevent the chance of secondary infection, it is best to remove them.  Seek medical assistance if necessary.

DO NOT apply substances such as petroleum jelly, finger nail polish, finger nail polish remover, repellents, pesticides, or a lighted match to the tick while it is attached.  These materials are either ineffective, or worse, they agitate the tick and cause it to force more infective fluid into the wound site.

REMEMBER: Successful transmission of pathogens requires the tick to be attached for at least several hours. Therefore, the sooner and more correctly infective ticks are removed, without irritating them or breaking off the mouth parts, the less likely they will be able to transmit infection.

It is impossible to tell if a tick is infected just by looking at it. Only analysis in a laboratory can determine infection status therefore always keep the tick ( the Tick Twister comes with a small ziplock bag for you to store any ticks in) and monitor yourself or your pet over the next few days.  Should you see any symptoms of infection, please consult a medical professional and have the tick analysed.